Passing on the Wild Atlantic Way

We don't spend all our time in the shed and recently I was given a handful of extra days off. It was a great early-year opportunity.

After hosting riders around the Ring of Kerry and the southwestern Bere and Dingle peninsulas, I still can't get enough of Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way.

With some unexpected time off, I jumped aboard Sherbert after booking a bed and breakfast in Baltimore and packing for an unknown number of days. We rode southwest from County Wexford to where the WAW starts at the Old Head of Kinsale.

Day 1. Cold with showers

The first hour dragged on. The roads are boringly familiar and a spring storm threatened to dampen my mood. Google Maps also did a sneaky route update, which cost me a pocket-searching toll to cross Waterford's River Suir. I approached Cork from its north and looked forward to my first stop and coffee break at the Lusitania Museum & Old Head Signal Tower.

Arriving in the sunshine and blasted by an icy off-shore gale, I found the tower and cafe closed. I'm a week early for the "season"! Regardless, we turned about and started the WAW. A brief wet stop in Clonakilty treated us to a hoard of classic rally cars blasting past their Gardai escort. I couldn't have timed that better.

Poulgorm Bridge

Pressing on, we followed the WAW signage around and across the prettiest deciduous tree-lined ocean inlets. I couldn’t help but stop to capture the view from the Poulgorm Bridge. There were more picturesque spots and I wasn’t planning on stopping as there was a distance to cover.

Finding Baltimore

The WAW proved difficult to follow in places. The signage became confused between the choice of a southern and a northern route. I chose the windy way and discovered more visual treats on the way. Geographically lost at Loch Hyne, we turned north to find the R595 and dropped south to our overnight in Baltimore.

8 hours of riding with minimal stops and only one coffee didn’t feel too bad. Sure, a nagging back injury rides pillion wherever we go and I can’t complain about Sherbert’s seat. I wouldn’t be without its level 2 heat setting on a day like this dipping as low as 4 degrees Celsius. Writing of dipping, the Sun was down and Murphy’s stout was calling from a bar a little up the unlit road.

The Channel View Bed & Breakfast is recommended for its good value. It’s clean, hospitable, has parking, and a great view.

Day 2. Sunny and cold

I set a rough objective based on the cheapest guesthouse on the northern edge of the Dingle Peninsular. The ambition was offset by avoiding Mizen Head. My wife wants to tour there later in the year. The day still proved a challenge. It would. I aimed to ride every best high pass available. Most riders hug the beautiful coastal routes. I just prefer the mountains.

Setting off to Bantry

We set off after a light scrambled egg and salmon breakfast at around 09:00.

The N71 to Bantry is a hidden gem of a route. Although poorly surfaced in places, its sweeping curves and varied landscape are only entertaining.

The cove around Bantry is simply stunning. This was my first ride in the area and I will include the same route when I return to ride the Mizen Head.

Climbing to Healy Pass

The climb out and onto Ardnatrush More and the route around Garinish West are typical of the WAW: great riding twisties, distracting views, and spine-shattering surfaces.

Creeping onto my favourite Bere Peninsular, we veered north onto the R574 to snake up the Healy Pass. This is my ideal countryside with single-track switchbacks and head-spinning vistas over open moors and rugged mountainsides.

Visitors riding in Ireland shouldn’t miss this. They just shouldn’t.

Cresting the pass within a deep bouldered gully, the views open to low green pastures lapping up to mountainsides dressed for hardy sheep to graze. Dropping down to Lauragh, the hedgerows offer teasing glimpses of the coast before indulging in Kenmare Bay.

Digging deep into endurance mode, we resist the westward delights of the Ring of Kerry and climb northward toward Molls Gap.

I can’t write eloquently enough to describe the joys of riding anywhere on the Kerry Penisular and can only beg you to experience it on any bike. Sherbert’s DCT just added to the experience.

All the torque, gearing, and engine purr combine to waft you through the scenery. I only caution every turn threatens disaster and the mind needs focus.

Distracted and wayward drivers and riders present a very real danger of collisions. We were lucky though, even on this St Paddy’s Day bank holiday, the roads were less than busy.

Molls Gap

My memories of Molls Gap all include cold, wet, and miserable bikers standing drenched next to their machines. There was a cafe and it always seemed closed. Today was sunshine and, at 6 degrees Celcius with only a light breeze, it was really pleasant.

There’s an Avoca store and cafe opposite the cafe now. It’s set up to convince American women to part with Dollars for wool. The coffee was good, the toilets were clean, and a light lunch refreshed my spirits.

While queuing, I booked accommodation at Cloghane using Apple Pay. I mention that because I was delighted not to have spent more time fiddling around with a card in public with bystanders. Just a thought to mention.

Ballaghbeama Pass

Anyway, it was 13:00 and we were only halfway to our objective, which I’d prefer to reach before dark. Sherbert’s stock 2023 lighting is good. I just didn’t want to tackle the last pass of the day at night.

We took the left turn away from the fine Kilarney route and toward Blackwater. This drops off the southwest off the mountains before a junction turns you north and over the high Ballaghbeama Pass. The ride off the pass is notable for its views and twisty decent hugging the mountainside. The views don’t disappoint.

We diverted west aiming to explore the Ballaghasheen Pass View Point. The intention was to carry on northwest to exit the peninsula eastward on the N70 Ring of Kerry. A time appreciation suggested back-tracking and heading northeastward was the better option today. It may even have been more scenic.

Road to Dingle

I was tired now. The twisty laneways take their toll on concentration. I was thankful for the motivation to reach the accommodation and not lose the cost. This is important as the R561 toward Dingle is rough, straight, and utterly boring. That is until you pass Inch Beach. From there the road hugs the coast before setting off cross-country and joining the N86. It still felt a slog reaching the outskirts of Dingle and the promise of one more dramatic pass began to loom over us from our north. The Connor Pass.

It felt a shame to bypass Dingle. I’d love to have ridden through the seafront town again. I love it. It’s quaint with all the pubs and restaurants you need for a restful stay. Now riding north, the road rises steeply as it sweeps along and across the contours of Ballybowler North. The pass is steep and only inspiring when viewed in the mirrors. There lays the mountain ranges of the Kerry Peninsula 50 Km south. It stretches east to west in a heavy evening atmosphere lit by a yellowing Sun.

Cresting, now there’s a view! The wide valley guides the gaze to the Atlantic bay of ahead. Don’t gaze too long though as the road narrows to single file and twirls around the cliff face. As dusk began to fight off the last of western sunlight, it was easy enough to spot oncoming traffic and calculate passing points. A nervous driver in front gave us the opportunity to take in the view. Again, breathtaking.

Dropping quickly down to the bay and riding swiftly through the charming Cloghane, we arrived at O’Connor’s Bar & Guesthouse for 18:30. It’s an ancient pub with basic amenities, good Murphy’s, and reasonable food. Campers add to the atmosphere and as much as a full night’s entertainment was attractive, I retired early. Knackered after finding a scheduled 5-hour ride is an 8-hour epic.

The route out from Baltimore

1. Baltimore
2. Healy pass
3. Molls gap
4. Ballaghbeama Pass
5. Balagahasheen viewpoint
6. Dingle
7. Conor pass